We have been burning up the road miles all over Anatolia for
the last few days; luckily for us we have a very comfortable bus and a very
competent driver.
We hit the road Sunday after the kids returned from their
home stays and began a six hour bus ride to Ankara, the capital of Turkey. Most folks assume that Istanbul is the capital;
after all it was the capital of the Ottoman Empire under the name “Constantinople.” However, with the founding of the Turkish
Republic, Mustafa Kemal moved the capital to a more central location in
Anatolia, and Ankara quickly became a very modern city.
We began our time in Ankara at the mausoleum of Mustafa
Kemal Ataturk – a truly grand structure, for a truly grand and transformative
man. The expanses of marble, the
cavernous mausoleum, the gold-gilded ceiling, the ceremonial changing of the
guards all served to begin to demonstrate the power that Ataturk still has
today over the Turkish people. There is
a level of adoration and dedication to Ataturk which does not really translate
into our American lives, and the students got to witness a bit of that first
hand.
Next, at the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, we were able
to look at artifacts from the dawn of civilization. The museum was awarded the European Museum of
the Year award a few years back, and it certainly did not disappoint.
One of the highlights of the trip so far for me came the
next morning when we had a visiting scholar come to the hotel conference room
and talk with us about the decline of the Ottomans, the Ottoman role in World
War One, and the rise of the Turkish Republic under Ataturk. The professor who was scheduled to meet with
us had an accident (not a highlight for her, I’m sure) and was replaced with
Marat, my guide from the trip two years ago who is now living in Ankara and
finishing his doctoral work on the subjects.
It was a highlight for me because I am very fond of Marat and we have
kept in touch, but also because our kids were so engaged with him and asked so
many thoughtful and excellent questions.
It was a truly scholarly discussion, and I was so proud of the kids.
Then we started driving again – This time to Cappadocia – my
favorite region of Turkey.
A word on driving in Turkey:
Outside of Istanbul, sanity returns to the roadways (mostly). There are lots of busses on the roads, as
many people prefer public transportation to owning a car. Turkey currently has the second most
expensive gasoline in the world – I think Finland has the most expensive. There is something really enthralling about
being a passenger traveling through foreign lands because you have the
opportunity to just watch all the curiosities go by. Being in a giant bus, you also have a great
view of the world below.
Turkey also has possibly the greatest rest stops in the
world (even better than those classy stops along the Jersey Turnpike). Each stop served delicious traditional
Turkish cuisine. Each stop has a market,
usually complete with barrels of spices, nuts, Turkish delights, and dried
fruits. And each stop has its own unique regional flavor.
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14th Century Caravanseria |
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Our hotel in Cappadocia |
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More Teenagers Sleeping Anywhere |
Outside the Mausoleum of Ataturk |
Marat! |
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More caravanserai |
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Touring Mustafapasha |
Evening in Mustafapasha |
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