Sunday, June 22, 2014

sooooo frustrated with uploading pictures

and another attempt...
The Library at Ephesus -- some welcome shade!

Grant at the Ephesus Theater - for some reason, he ran the steps...twice

Kusadasi

Allie getting her weave on!

I am a terrible photographer -- sorry Hart

Some of the rugs of DOBAG

He's pointing at nothing

Pergamon

The steepest amphitheater of the ancient world - Grant ran this one too!

Pergamon

Climbing on the ruins!

I seem to be the only one sweating...

The kids and Yaren

The chaperones (minus Jonathan) and Yaren

Saturday, June 21, 2014

Idyllic Ayvalik


Let’s hope for some better wifi tonight!  We had a great day today and have found ourselves in the lovely seaside village of Ayvalik – a stark contrast to the cruise ship port of Kusadasi!

We began our day at the DOBAG initiative.  The Dobag co-op is an organization dedicated to preserving the traditional methods and materials of the Turkish rug weavers.  They produce masterpieces – rugs of really indescribable beauty.  There was a small carpet of probably 18” by 12” today that took 4 ½ years to weave and cost US$17,000.  And if I had that kind of disposable income, I would have paid it!  They did let me hold it, which I thought was a really bad idea…

I love this place.  The Dobag folks let the kids do some of the weaving and silk spinning today, which they loved, and they showcased hundreds of the carpets they have produced over the years. 

Next up was the acropolis of Pergamon, an ancient city of importance during the Hellenistic era.  I love Pergamon!  It is in such contrast to Ephesus.  Sure, it certainly does not have the grandeur and volume of Ephesus, but its location, perched on the top of a hill overlooking a lush valley and the modern city of Bergamon, make it a much more scenic site.  There are also approximately 12 million less tourists crowding the site.  In fact, we basically had it to ourselves.  Pergamon is also home to the steepest amphitheater in the ancient world, so we had a great time scaling those heights.

We have a really great day planned for tomorrow, so we are turning in for the night!

I am posting this without pictures since the wifi is spotty again.  I will try and get some pictures posted in a separate post a bit later.

Friday, June 20, 2014

Life on the Aegean


My apologies for not getting this posted sooner.  The internet in our hotel in Kusadasi is terrible, especially in the evenings, and there is no way to upload anything.  So let me catch you up on what has been happening here on the beautiful Aegean coast!

As you probably know, Trip Advisor recently rated Istanbul as the number one travel destination in the world.  While I cannot deny the wonderful nature of Istanbul, if given the opportunity to return to Turkey, I would spend all my time in Cappadocia.  The nature of the landscapes, the uniqueness of the geography, the friendliness of the people, the laid back atmosphere – they all combine to make it one of my favorite places in the world. 

Our last day in Cappadocia was jam-packed.  We began our morning with a guided hike through the Goemeda Valley.  This is a true wilderness hike of almost six miles through a lush valley with towering cliffs of “tuff”, stream crossings, dramatic vistas, and sheer cliffs pocketed with man-made rooms sometimes more than six stories high.  There is so much opportunity to explore on and off trail, and we did a fair amount of both.  This was a highlight of the trip for me so far!  I cannot tell you how proud I am of the Collegiate kids’ spirit of adventure and exploration.  More than any of the other students, our kids are taking every opportunity to explore further and dig deeper.  If anything, I am having to hold them back.

After the hike, we kept up with the exploration in the Kaymakli Underground City – an underground complex carved centuries ago straight down with eight levels that could hold 5,000 people for long periods of time during enemy sieges.  The city had everything, including a winery (because if you are stuck underground with 5k people indefinitely…). 

Lastly, we went to a pottery facility and watched master potters create truly amazing pieces.  Hart and Allie had the opportunity to take a turn with a traditional kick wheel and throw a pot.  Hilarity ensued…I have videos!

We put the kids in bed early, because our wake up call came at 3:30AM.  Now, for the parents reading this blog, I want you to imagine how fun it was to wake your teenagers up at 3:30 to get them on a bus by 4.  It was magical.

After a flight to Istanbul, then one to Izmir, we finally arrived on the Aegean coastline and got our first taste of the more Mediterranean side of Turkey.  We spent our lunch hours wandering the winding mountain streets of the village of Sirince, then the rest of our afternoon at the ancient city of Ephesus.

After two trips to the ancient city, I have decided that I have a love-hate relationship with Ephesus.  The restorations and excavations are so extensive that there are very few places in the world you could visit and experience such ancient Roman grandeur.  To walk down the marble streets flanked by ancient columns, temples, and theaters is a truly unique and humbling experience.  But to say that Ephesus is hot is a dramatic understatement.  Even with a breeze, the reflective nature of the massive amount of marble, couple with the sheer volume of people who pour into the city every hour, bringing their most unwelcome body heat with them…it can be suffocating.

We all survived, and had the special treat after the visit of checking into our hotel and discovering there was a pool!

Half of our last day in Kusadasi was spent on a beach on the Aegean.  We swam, we threw the Frisbee, we played volleyball, we sunbathed, Nigel and I played an infuriatingly long game of “who can throw the rock into the tiny metal pipe way over there first” (me).  We got chased off the beach a bit early by a storm, but once it cleared back up, we spent the rest of the day floating in the pool and walking around town.  All in all, we needed a day of lounging and recharging.

We are really on the backside of the trip now.  We have just a few more stops before we make our way back to reality and back to seeing all of you!  I am sorry that I can’t post pictures yet.  Hopefully our hotel in Ayvalik will have more cooperative wifi.  Until then!

Thursday, June 19, 2014

Kusadasi has lousy internet

This is going to be short due to the fact that our hotel in the Aegean town of Kusadasi has the most frustrating wifi ever.  I am getting kicked off the internet every few minutes, and there is no way that I will be able to upload any pictures until I get this figured out.

However, I have a write up and pictures ready to go as soon as the computers cooperate.  For now, the kids are safe and asleep -- we wore them out today -- We have a day at the beach scheduled for tomorrow, our first real down time in a week, and I know the kids are looking forward to some swimming in the Aegean!

More to come, I promise!

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Tuff is not enough!



We had a wonderful, breezy and cool day today walking the wonders of Cappadocia.  We started at the Goreme Open Air Museum and looked at churches dating all the way back to the 4th Century AD that were literally carved into the side of the volcanic cliffs ( called “tuff”) of the Cappadocia region.  We lunched in the inviting living room of a local woman who has lived in the region her entire life.  Then we scaled to dizzying heights through the inside and outside of a volcanic tower on the outskirts of town.  Tomorrow is a very busy day, so I am keeping this short and sweet tonight.

The kids are great – and I am appreciating them and their energy more and more everyday.  They even sang happy birthday (all 20 of them) to my wife this morning!

I hope you enjoy the pictures below!

Goreme Open Air Museum

Some of the cave churches of Goreme

Breakfast in the cave hotel!

Lunch on the couches

Our lunch host

Our brave climbers!

  
The Summit!

Monday, June 16, 2014

The wheels on the bus go 'round and 'round


We have been burning up the road miles all over Anatolia for the last few days; luckily for us we have a very comfortable bus and a very competent driver.

We hit the road Sunday after the kids returned from their home stays and began a six hour bus ride to Ankara, the capital of Turkey.  Most folks assume that Istanbul is the capital; after all it was the capital of the Ottoman Empire under the name “Constantinople.”  However, with the founding of the Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal moved the capital to a more central location in Anatolia, and Ankara quickly became a very modern city.

We began our time in Ankara at the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk – a truly grand structure, for a truly grand and transformative man.  The expanses of marble, the cavernous mausoleum, the gold-gilded ceiling, the ceremonial changing of the guards all served to begin to demonstrate the power that Ataturk still has today over the Turkish people.  There is a level of adoration and dedication to Ataturk which does not really translate into our American lives, and the students got to witness a bit of that first hand.

Next, at the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, we were able to look at artifacts from the dawn of civilization.  The museum was awarded the European Museum of the Year award a few years back, and it certainly did not disappoint.

One of the highlights of the trip so far for me came the next morning when we had a visiting scholar come to the hotel conference room and talk with us about the decline of the Ottomans, the Ottoman role in World War One, and the rise of the Turkish Republic under Ataturk.  The professor who was scheduled to meet with us had an accident (not a highlight for her, I’m sure) and was replaced with Marat, my guide from the trip two years ago who is now living in Ankara and finishing his doctoral work on the subjects.  It was a highlight for me because I am very fond of Marat and we have kept in touch, but also because our kids were so engaged with him and asked so many thoughtful and excellent questions.  It was a truly scholarly discussion, and I was so proud of the kids.

Then we started driving again – This time to Cappadocia – my favorite region of Turkey.

A word on driving in Turkey:  Outside of Istanbul, sanity returns to the roadways (mostly).  There are lots of busses on the roads, as many people prefer public transportation to owning a car.  Turkey currently has the second most expensive gasoline in the world – I think Finland has the most expensive.  There is something really enthralling about being a passenger traveling through foreign lands because you have the opportunity to just watch all the curiosities go by.  Being in a giant bus, you also have a great view of the world below. 

Turkey also has possibly the greatest rest stops in the world (even better than those classy stops along the Jersey Turnpike).  Each stop served delicious traditional Turkish cuisine.  Each stop has a market, usually complete with barrels of spices, nuts, Turkish delights, and dried fruits. And each stop has its own unique regional flavor.

14th Century Caravanseria
I’m getting long winded, and you are getting bored, so I will leave you with this.  Cappadocia is unlike anything I have ever seen.  My pitiful camera skills are no match for the wonders and beauty of the landscape we will immerse ourselves in for the next few days.  I encourage you to go to the web and search out images and videos created by people far more talented than me, although I have posted a few pictures below of our last few days and first taste of Cappadocia.  More to come!
Our hotel in Cappadocia

More Teenagers Sleeping Anywhere

Outside the Mausoleum of Ataturk

Marat!

More caravanserai

Touring Mustafapasha

Evening in Mustafapasha
 Quick disclaimer: Our internet is pretty spotty here, and blogspot hates it -- the photos are in no discernible order in this post - and not all of them would load.  Sorry!

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Home away from Home away from Home

I have to say, I really missed the kids while they were on their home stays.  Sure, moving through an Istanbul crowd with six people rather than twenty-six is much less stressful, but I found myself missing their energy and banter.  However, I can say without a doubt that they did not miss me.  I even got a text message from one of my charges on their first night away saying, "Why is this so short!?!"

The following post was written by all four of the Collegiate students on the bus ride between Istanbul and Ankara following their home stays over this past weekend.


Grocery shopping in a country whose language you don’t know is one of the most disconcerting things I have ever had the pleasure of trying. Bright, unfamiliar letters screaming at you from every direction is quite overwhelming when you can’t read one of them. This was my first experience with my home-stay buddy.  Orkun took me to the market in his neighborhood where I had my first Istanbul Waffle, a wonderful invention I told him would make a fortune if imported to America. After a late dinner, he took me to Giza Park, where political protests had been brutally suppressed just last year. It was striking to see life going on as usual in such an important place in recent Turkish history.

The following afternoon, Orkun introduced me to Backgammon and Tavla, or Turkish Checkers, over Turkish coffee. I was very happy with my success in Backgammon, so I introduced him to American Checkers, in which he promptly trounced me.
-Hart

When meeting my home stay buddy I immediately noticed one thing, a British Accent. Timothy was not only had a British accent, but both he and his mother are fluent in English. Communication was much easier than I had expected, as Tim was fluent in both English and Turkish. I was very impressed with all of the Turkish living communities. There were many communities like Timothy’s that had housing for many people, along with a community pool, sports courts, and even restaurants.  I found Tim’s community very inviting and after meeting his “mum” we played billiards and a Turkish basketball game.

The homestay experience is one of the best things I’ve done so far in Turkey and I only wish I’d had more time. The following day was an awesome experience sailing to a Turkish isle on the family’s boat. I’ve decided seafood is best at the shore-side restaurants.
-Grant

The first thing that my home stay buddy asked me is, “What do you want to do?” I responded by saying “I want to do anything but touristy things” so I was showed a completely different side of Turkey. This was probably one of the most amazing things I have ever done. It was amazing to see how modernized and secular this part of Turkey is. My buddy and I went to 3 sections of Istanbul, the first section we went to was Nisantasi, which was more of a high fashion road. Then we went to Ortakoy, which was a boardwalk, with little shops. Last was Taksim, which was like the Times Square of Istanbul.

            The main observation that I made during my home stay was how similar secular Istanbul is to America, especially places like New York City. It is such an amazing place filled with so many different cultures. My home stay family was also so wonderful and nice, and also did an amazing job of immersing me in Turkish culture and strengthening my view of this dynamic country.
-Allie

We boarded the service bus to my host Kaan Goksal’s home in the suburbs of Istanbul. We told stories the whole way and got to know each other right off the bat in a way that I could never have anticipated. We were so much alike it astounded me. We had the same views of politics and of religion. I found out quickly that Turkish kids are incredibly similar to American kids. They hang out, study hard, and like to have tons of fun all of the time. Kaan’s mom is an English teacher so Kaan, his father, and his sister Rena all had great English since it is their 2nd language. Kaan was so genuine and willing to share all that he could with me about Turkey and himself. He is a caring person and loves the outdoors much like I do.  Kaan had to take the ACT exam on the morning of my stay and so I was able to get some much-needed sleep. Later that evening I gave the family the book I had bought for them about Virginia and all of their eyes lit up when they saw the pictures in the book. It was such an amazing moment for me to see them appreciate where I am from and what it looks like. I had an amazing experience with my host family and there is no doubt in my mind that I will be back to Turkey at some point in the future.
-Nigel 

Friday, June 13, 2014

To Topkapi and Beyond!


We have had a busy couple of days in Istanbul, and are on our downside of the Istanbul portion of the trip.  The students are on home stays for the next two nights, and I know they were all looking forward to the experience.

The last two days were a blur of activity and movement.  We stated with a tour of the Topkapi Palace in the Sultanahamet District.  It was a bit rushed because of the schedule for the day, but the students still had the chance to tour the Harem and learn what it actually was, not what popular culture says it was.  They also had the chance to view an eighty-six carat diamond in the royal treasury…possibly a good Father’s Day gift…

Today started with a trip to Asia – you know, just a casual trip by boat to another continent.  No big deal.  We spent the morning in Asia at an artist’s studio learning from a master the art of “ebru”.  It was a really unique experience, and the students were given the opportunity to create some of their own work.  However, the real experience for Grant and Allie was the discovery of the artist’s cat’s litter of kittens…

After lunch we cruised for a few hours up and down the Bosporus on a tour boat led by Yaren, our guide.  It was striking to see the 18th Century mansions along side contemporary villas alongside former Ottoman-era palaces dotting the shoreline. 

The home stays began after our Bosporus cruise, and I know the students are going to have a really memorable and meaningful experience.   So much of our experience in Turkey thus-far has been in museums and districts heavy with tourists.  While that has been incredibly powerful, I am really looking forward to them getting into the real Istanbul and interacting with people outside of the Sultanahamet. 

Enjoy the photos below (hopefully the video will work this time).  See you all on Sunday!
A Dome in the Harem of Topkapi Palace

Cruising on the Bosporus

Cougars!

Tulip!

Flowers!

Tulip!

Abstract art!

Teenagers can sleep anywhere, in any position!


Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Our Dogs are Barking!


Day Three

We are tired.  So very tired.  Today was a day – it was a day of walking, touring, learning, exploring, eating, resting, walking, walking, eating, and more walking.

Just to give you a run-down on the sights we saw today, it went like this: Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Hagia Sofia, Grand Bazaar, and the Spice Bazaar.  I won’t drag on here about all the fascinating facts and history of these building, some of which have been standing for 1,500 years (couldn’t resist), instead I would refer you to the links below which can give you some better idea (apologies for the wiki site…).

 
What I would like to muse on a bit after our day today would be the tremendous sense of awe one gets as they stride through doors that have been opened for Roman Emperors and Ottoman Sultans.  There is something really humbling about walking into a building that has been standing for fifteen centuries.  I was not only struck by the grandeur, the truly massive scale of these building, by the craftsmanship and artistry of these ancient structures, but also of the fact that we were standing in ancient history, in buildings and around monuments that had been commissioned by the most powerful men in the ancient world.  I have been gauging student interest in each individual site based on the number of students who tune everything else in the world out, who will stop short in mid-sentence in order to take a picture.  These students have been taking a lot of pictures!

A brief note about the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar – chaos.  Those places are an absolute frenzy of shopping and haggling.  Some of our students have become quite adept at talking shop keeps down on their prices.  Allie in particular has quite the talent.  She talked her way not only into some reduced prices, but also into some remarkable free stuff today!

I hope you enjoy the pictures below.

Outside the Hagia Sophia

Inside the Blue Mosque

Courtyard of the Blue Mosque

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

International Flights are so fun when you are over 6'

It was a long day of travel, but we are in Istanbul!  Our flights were uneventful, but cramped for those of us over 6' tall (4 out of 5 of us). 

One of the things that always strikes me when I am around groups of students who are meeting each other for the first time is how fast everything happens.  My little group of four made 16 new friends yesterday within minutes of meeting them!  Students are so quick - much quicker than adults - to get over that initial awkward, "Uhh, hi...My name is _________.  What is yours?"  They get it out of the way, then they move on with confidence and curiosity.  It's the curiosity that makes the biggest impression on me.  They want to know what shared experiences others have had, what their schools are like, what they do in common, how they are different.  The initial awkwardness is replaced with enthusiasm and animated conversation almost immediately.  Within ten minutes of our schools coming together in the JFK Terminal on Monday, this was the scene:

  There is a second circle of students that I couldn't fit into frame directly beside this one.

Later, after a long flight and hot trip though customs, when the students were presented with a large tour bus, this is what I boarded to:

Clearly everyone is getting along just fine...

We have a pretty restful day today, but tomorrow is a different story!

Sunday, June 8, 2014

About the trip

The library at Ephesus

This June, four students and one faculty member from The Collegiate School in Richmond, Virginia, along with students and faculty from Cape Henry Collegiate School, Wilbraham & Monson Academy, Hathaway Brown School, Ravenscroft, and Head Royce will participate in a Global Education Benchmark Group trip to Turkey.  Over the course of nearly three weeks, students will travel from through many diverse areas of Turkey, from Istanbul to Cappadocia to Ephesus to Troy to Gallipoli, with many stops in between.

Turkey is a modern and progressive republic, with strong influences in both the European and Middle Eastern world.  It sits at the crossroad of Europe and Asia, and is a strong influence in regional and global politics.  Over the course of our weeks in Turkey,  we will be exposed to both the modern Turkish state and its place in the world, as well as the rich Roman and Ottoman history of the region.

Students and faculty will contribute their time to this blog over the next few weeks.  And while we may not get to it everyday (wifi can be spotty), we hope you enjoy following us on our wanderings though Turkey!

Serefe!